I may have mentioned my fear of open water a couple of times. I’m sure it came up in my review of our Disney Cruise and again in my post on Elba Island. However, as a mom trying to do my damndest to be a brave, adventure-loving role model, I continue to try to conquer this fear. And what better way to do it than a catamaran cruise around Cozumel?
Isla de Cozumel is a 185 square mile island off the Yucatán Peninsula, opposite Playa del Carmen. It’s a popular destination for cruise ships and divers wanting to discover the wonders of the sea. The MesoAmerican Barrier Reef (the world’s second largest) surrounds the island and is ideal for snorkeling and exploring underwater life.
Our journey started with a ferry ride from Playa del Carmen to the island of Cozumel. We chose WinJet, a fast ferry that ran just about every hour and promised to be an easy, 45-minute jaunt to Cozumel. The first tipsy step I took onto the boat signaled to me that this ferry would be different from the other slow-moving ferries I’ve been on before. A little voice inside told me to take the Dramamine before it would be too late. I’m so happy I did.
As we took our seats and watched the ship start to push back from the dock, we tried to get comfortable. The boat was clean and mostly empty. The crew was friendly. The skies were blue. However, about five minutes into our journey, the rocking of the ship became almost unbearable. The kids started to turn green. The grown-ups estimated the time it would take to make it from their seats to the restroom. The crew calmly began to pass out barf bags like it was no big thing.
Through the boat’s bobbing and the passengers puking, we somehow made it to Cozumel only a little traumatized. But the last thing anyone wanted to do was get on another boat. Unfortunately, that was the only plan we had for the day and everyone had toughen up.
A quick taxi ride from the Cozumel port allowed us to air out and took us to our next destination: Marina Fonatur to board our private catamaran.
There are several options for a boat tour around Cozumel, most include rowdy twenty-somethings and yard-stick sized daiquiris. Since we were a group of three children and four (old and grumpy) adults, we wanted to avoid the booze cruises and crowds. Instead, we opted for our own private 35’ catamaran through Exclusive Cozumel Sailing that took us on a five-hour round trip ride to a sweet snorkeling spot in the reef and then to El Cielo, a heavenly crystal-clear sandbar accessible only by boat.
At the dock, our captain met us and took us to our ship. She was a new 35’ catamaran with two cabins, two bathrooms, and a dining room--plenty of room for our party of seven. In addition to a captain, we also had two first mates who tended to our every need. Life vests, paddle boards and all snorkeling equipment (for both kids and adults) were also provided.
The first hour was spent cruising along Cozumel to our snorkeling spot. The captain was informative and friendly while the first mates did everything from making drinks and delicious snacks to helping the kids get out into their snorkeling gear. As it was the first real snorkeling experience for most of us, there were some tears, but the crew made it so much fun that everyone eventually dove in...except me. The Jaws theme music played in my head every time I thought about dipping more than a toe.
After thirty minutes or so of snorkeling (I heard it was amazing!), we continued our journey. On our way to El Cielo, David, one of the first mates, jumped into the ocean after a beach hat that blew overboard. He snatched it in seconds flat. I’m telling you, these guys were amazing!
El Cielo is a sandbar accessible only by boat where the water is no more than waist deep and the sandy bottom is velvety soft. This was more my speed. I hopped on the paddle board with a couple of kids, cruised around our anchored ship and watched the stingrays slide by underneath. It was as close as I was willing to get to the sealife, and it was magical.
With the boat anchored and everyone enjoying the sandbar, the crew made lunch. We had fresh fruit, chips, guacamole, and quesadillas. The open bar included soft drinks, water, beer, liquor and wine.
We all complained on the way back that we didn’t want the day to end, but after five hours on the catamaran, we had to say goodbye. It was the perfect place to conquer my fear, a gorgeous boat surrounded by friends, family and knowledgeable experts. But, the fear lives to see another day and I don’t regret it. While I didn’t make it into the open waters this time, I still had an amazing adventure that no one in our party will soon forget.
What to do:
Take a private catamaran around Cozumel with Exclusive Cozumel Sailing
What to pack:
You won’t need anything else; Exclusive Cozumel Sailing has you covered.
I received an extra hour of sailing from Exclusive Cozumel Sailing in exchange for this post.
After scorching on the streets of Rome, falling in love with Florence, and being attacked by bugs outside of Siena, it was time for the beach. We’d heard about Italian beaches--banana hammocks and big umbrellas packed like sardines on small stretches of sand. I’d researched the hell out of where to go with Skinny Jeans looking for a sandy spot, not too touristy and not too sharky. (Any vacation that includes the ocean would be amiss without an irrational fear of shark-infested waters.)
Enter in Elba Island.
Elba, located in the Tuscan Archipelago, is the third largest island in Italy. Its claim to fame dates back to 1814 when it was home to Napoleon during his exile. But its crystal clear, blue sea and beautiful beaches are Elba’s true treasures. A mix of leafy land and serene sea makes Elba the perfect destination for diving, snorkeling, mountain biking, or soaking up the sun (apparently Elba is exempt from sunscreen or skin cancer) like the rest of the Italians.
To get to Elba, we took a ferry from Porto Piombino. It was a slow-moving gigantic rig that allowed us to take our car with us and gave us gorgeous views of the island’s shores. From the port in Elba, we made our way to the southern end of the island, Lacona, where we’d rented a one-bedroom apartment from Mini Hotel. The fine, golden sand of Lacona beach was the perfect spot for Skinny Jeans to build a sand castle and the clear, warm, calm waters were perfect for me to keep an eye out for sharks. With no current or undertow, we spent hours splashing in the sea and floating on our newly purchased blow-up raft. With our toes danging off the edge and the warm water lazily lapping, I almost forgot we were in the ocean.
It wasn’t until a tanned man in a Speedo emerged from the waters holding a leggy octopus by its head that I remembered we were most definitely still in the sea. We gawked as he carelessly walked his catch to the shore, plopped it in a sand bucket full of salt water, and saved the creature for supper.
After a few days at Locona, we headed West to Fetovaia and spent a day at the stunning beach and at Hotel Montemerlo - Campo nell'Elba, a sister resort of MiniHotel. While much smaller than Lacona beach, the beach at Fetovaia is surrounded by cliffs that contrast with its blinding white sand and the water looks fake it’s so blue.
The thing about Elba that had me enthralled wasn’t the beach, wasn’t the grilled octopus I’d eaten for dinner (don’t worry, I didn’t take the one from the sand bucket), wasn’t the dangerous cliffs or the local aquarium highlighting just some of the strange sea creatures.
No, the thing about Elba is the women. The women walk the beaches in bikinis no matter their age, no matter their size, no matter how the tiger stripes stretch across their bellies or the dimples dot their thighs. In my stylish black one-piece suit, I stood out like a sore thumb. While I covered all my imperfections, they unapologetically put theirs on display. Sure, there were picture-perfect women wearing thong bottoms and nothing else, but for every one of them, there were three women--young, old, thin, thick--baring it all without a blink. And after a couple of days, this normalizing of bodies became so empowering that even I started to care less about what mine looked like and more about how beautiful and interesting the shapes and sizes made an already stunning shoreline look. As I watched Skinny Jeans skim the small waves, I couldn’t think of a better place for her to learn to love her own body and for me to appreciate mine.
Thank you, women of Elba, for showing this American how beautiful we all are.
Where to stay:
Mini Hotel, Lacona- all the necessities, large fully equipted kitchen, no pool, but close to beach and beachside parking available. The BEST hospitality from check-in (informative with loads of island discounts) to check-out (sent us with a parting gift of homemade jam).
Hotel Montemerlo, Fetovaia - with our stay at the Mini Hotel, we had access to this hotel’s amenities which included parking near the beach and a pool. The lunch we ate poolside was incredible.
Where to eat:
Bagni Orano di Enzo e Francesca- On Lacona beach. I recommend the grilled octopus!
Il Gelato Dell'Artista- great Lacona beachside gelato
Hotel Montemerlo - Campo nell'Elba did a great lunch next to the pool
What to do:
The Elba Aquarium- fascinating look at what lurks beneath
Lacona Beach- golden sand, calm waters, huge crowds
Fetovaia Beach- white sand, dramatic cliffs, blue waters, big crowds
Both the Lacona and Fetovaia beaches are great for small children!
I received a media rate stay at Mini Hotel in exchage for this post.
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